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In Greenland, Taking It All In with Snowy Jogs and Sled Dogs

by Lisa

During a nearly two-week reporting trip to Greenland, New York Times reporter Jeffrey Gettleman found time to experience the island’s unique culture firsthand, blending work with adventure.

The journey began in Nuuk, Greenland’s capital, where Gettleman explored political opinions on President Trump’s controversial interest in the island. After a day of interviews, he ventured out for some much-needed exercise in the snow. Despite the icy streets and snowstorm, he joined a group of local runners, eventually finding himself swept into the Nuuk running club, which ended their run with beers at Daddy’s, a local bar. This informal but enlightening experience allowed Gettleman to connect with Greenlandic culture, which fuses traditional practices and modern influences.

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Gettleman’s participant-observation approach, where he joined local activities to gain deeper insights, was particularly valuable during his visit to Ilulissat. The town, known for its stunning icebergs, is also home to ice fishing, which Gettleman tried firsthand. After traveling across delicate ice on a dog sled pulled by huskies, he joined the fishing effort, learning the intricacies of the activity. Though he didn’t catch much, Gettleman connected with the Greenlanders, gaining deeper cultural insights while sharing moments of camaraderie.

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The day wasn’t without its risks. While heading back, the sled dogs, eager for food, veered dangerously close to an ice hole in the fjord. In a thrilling moment, Gettleman, photographer Ivor Prickett, and translator Maya Tekeli were forced to abandon the sled to avoid falling into the freezing water, laughing at their close call.

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Through these personal experiences, Gettleman was able to report on Greenland not only as a political and geographical subject but as a living, breathing place with a fascinating blend of ancient and contemporary traditions.

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